Pata report : early preview 2

After Goretta ascent, a incredible widow appears again and we head up for a one push on the Californian route.  We climb with nothing to sleep on the wall, commited for a successful fast ascent.  For a idea of the climb, you can learn the report here from Kate Rutheford : 
http://www.thecleanestline.com/2009/02/alpine-light.html

 We reach the summit of Fitz in 18 hours after losing some time on traverse spire on the las part...wrong side many time.  Great feeling on the summit of the Fitz then we rappel down on the night following 2 argentinas teams.

 They loss here way and we follow to a desperate long night on a unknow face of the wall...we where to far wright of the Franco/Argentine route.  We reach the ground following the slowest rappel team ever see on a mountain for a mini epic of 32 hours roud trip passo superior to passo superior.  2 hours of resting we are unable to sleep, to tired, we going down the valley to make a superb 40 hours sleepless trip.

Pata report : early preview 1

A few days after your arrival to El Chalten, we already climb to the top of Goretta pillar.  Long and steep, the climb was great up to the last third of the pillar where crack climbing turn to ice chocked chimeneys fight for your life.

We short fixing where possible and go fast as we can.  400m of 5.9 rottern gully  lead to a close to 900m of continuous 5.10 and 5.11 crack.  Best topo we found here:  http://ktml.freeservers.com/Misc/Fitz-N-Topo.htm and interesting report from Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw here: http://ktml.freeservers.com/Misc/Fitz-N.htm

  We try to sleep without sleeping bag and without succes on a 1 foot square ledge.  One great New zealand party where couple of hour ahead of us (they try the route some years ago and start in middle of the night).  We learn from them partyculary about real early start and real alpin pack with nothing inside!  Another french party bail off at the begening of ice chocked chimeney.  Like new Zaeland team, we reach the top of the pillar before turned of by High wind.