This route is located in the Hautes-Gorges de la rivière Malbaie, directly over the dam (l'écluse), on the Acropole massif, 7 km after the park entrance and on the east side of the river.
The route has been open on the third attempt, in which we decided to bivy 110 meters up the cliff, on a ledge. She offers very fine mix climbing, on a beautiful alpine setting.
The approach is on a 30-50 degree avalanche gully, 700 m of elevation gain, about 200 meters before the dam. This gully can be a nice hard packed snow with WI2+ sections (early season), or a nice heavy deep snow happy swimming partoose! Usually it’s a mix of these two scenarios…
Pitch 1-2: Narrow and thin ice/lichen to a ledge (around M4+R, 110m). Sling on rock.
Pitch 3: Continue up on mix ground, slightly left, to join a belay anchor on bolts on the face left of the big overhang. (M6, 50m). The pitch 3 has been made to avoid an ugly tree line on the left, under the belay, and doesn't take it.
Pitch 4: Don't go to the chimney. Starting on the dihedral over the belay, go right after about 15m to join a small corner with very thin ice (two bolts), then left to an anchor on bolts. (M6-M6+, 45m)
Pitch 5: Continue straight to the top and enjoy! (M3, 45m).
Have fun!
Fred Maltais and Yannick Girard
Pitch 5: Continue straight to the top and enjoy! (M3, 45m).
Have fun!
Fred Maltais and Yannick Girard
Est-ce la version hivernal de "La pitoune" dans le guide québecois de l'escalade?
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