Pata report : early preview 1

A few days after your arrival to El Chalten, we already climb to the top of Goretta pillar.  Long and steep, the climb was great up to the last third of the pillar where crack climbing turn to ice chocked chimeneys fight for your life.

We short fixing where possible and go fast as we can.  400m of 5.9 rottern gully  lead to a close to 900m of continuous 5.10 and 5.11 crack.  Best topo we found here:  http://ktml.freeservers.com/Misc/Fitz-N-Topo.htm and interesting report from Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw here: http://ktml.freeservers.com/Misc/Fitz-N.htm

  We try to sleep without sleeping bag and without succes on a 1 foot square ledge.  One great New zealand party where couple of hour ahead of us (they try the route some years ago and start in middle of the night).  We learn from them partyculary about real early start and real alpin pack with nothing inside!  Another french party bail off at the begening of ice chocked chimeney.  Like new Zaeland team, we reach the top of the pillar before turned of by High wind.